'Hood #29: South LA "Secret" Food Tour

In my quest to visit every LA neighborhood this year, I just got home from a food tour of South LA (formerly known as South Central), a large neighborhood comprised of more than 20 smaller 'hoods that runs west of the 110 Freeway, south of the 10.

If you are, say, hypothetically, a middle-aged white lady who grew up in the midwest and has lived primarily by the beach since moving to LA, it's an area you probably don't know.  Your strongest association with it might even be as the epicenter of the LA Riots in 1992 or as a place that's struggled with gang violence—even though you also know it's where many people live and work and have a community and probably eat really cool food in really cool places.

Today I was one of those people eating really cool food in really cool places. 

The tour was run by Secret City Tours, which specializes in organizing tours of Los Angeles taking you to places you might not otherwise discover.  Every stop felt like a real find and I swore at each one I'd be back. Our guides John and Laura were amazing and knowledgable, so if I get any factoids wrong, the errors are all mine.  

Stop 1: F&J Bakery, a Mexican-American owned Armenian bakery in West Adams

The story goes that the original owner was Armenian, and upon his death he willed it to his two long-time cooks, who were of Mexican descent (hence the Mexicano on the sign).

We were served Lahmajune—an Armenian flatbread also called Armenian Pizza with tomato, bell pepper & spices—I got a vegetarian version with eggplant (yum) but the rest of the tour got lamb (they say also yum)

Stop #2: La TaQuiza on Figuroa in South LA

This is spittin' distance from USC and Metro's Expo Line—I'll definitely be back.

A La TaQuiza specialty: the Mulita, homemade tortillas stuffed with stuff—cheese, guacamole and mine had beans & rice ... the others had chicken.

Stop #3: Hawkins House of Burgers on Slater Street in Watts

One of the fun things about this tour is that we got to meet the proprietors—in this case, the lovely Cynthia Hawkins—daughter of the founder of Hawkins House who keeps her father's legacy alive by serving quality food at affordable prices.  I loved hearing about how they were one of the first restaurants in the community, and how they strive to reach out to people in an otherwise underserved area of LA directly across from the Jordan Downs housing project.  I don't eat beef, but the fries were fab... and I hear the Whipper burger with pastrami and a hot link is not to be missed.

Cynthia Hawkins serving up Angus-beef sliders with fixins'

Stop #3 1/2: We also stopped by Watts Towers... which I've already visited as part of this challenge but a delight to see again.

Stop #4: Watts Coffee House on 103 St. in Watts

You've got to really work to find it, tucked as it is inside an unmarked community center, but wow oh wow was the food good... mostly soul food, with a side of healthy in a charming, sit-down restaurant that's casual, comfortable & cozy.

Our intrepid guide John at Watts Coffee House with some guy you may recognize

I nearly weep thinking about what we ate: a Red Velvet Waffle with some sort of sauce that I'd like to inject directly into my soul, chili cheese grits and turkey sausage (camera shy)

Desiree Edwards, Watts Coffee House chef, owner and manager  who is clearly passionate about her neighborhood and her restaurant

In addition to the eating stops, we learned about South LA "then & now"... on Century Blvd. I was astounded to pass Kindle's Donuts.  Whaaat???!!!  If you're a Los Angelean, you know about Randy's Donuts in Inglewood.  I've lived here 30 years and never knew there was another giant donut.  Huh.

Last stop:  Harold & Belle's in West Adams on West Jefferson

Nearly four hours later, heading back to where we started in West Adams, we hit Harold and Belle's, a creole restaurant located in an area where—according to our host—many people from Louisiana once migrated.  We sat in the bar which we were told was once the entire place.  They've since expanded, and at 2 p.m. on a Saturday they were hopping.

We were served up a bowl of their Crawfish Étouffée—"crawfish tails smothered in rich and spicy crawfish gravy".  It was the first time I ever had etouffee.  I was already stuffed.  I ate the entire thing.  It was all I could do not to nab the bowl of the person sitting next to me.

I know I gushed throughout this entire blog, but I had such a great time—a wonderful group of people, truly the most knowledgable and enthusiastic guides I've ever had on a tour, and fun hotspots I'd never otherwise have encountered.  A definite highlight of my 'Hood Challenge and something I'd never have done if I hadn't set out to see all of LA.